What is Greenwashing?

Now more than ever, it is important to shop from businesses that use sustainable manufacturing processes, ethical treatment of their employees, and produce high-quality goods. As consumers, we try our best to choose companies that put their money where their (hypothetical) mouth is. Greenwashing adds an extra layer of difficulty to shopping sustainably.

Greenwashing is essentially when a business puts out messages about sustainability or “loving the earth” but doesn’t actually put that philosophy to work behind the scenes. Think of a large, online, fast fashion business that puts out new clothes almost every day. They might make a line of “sustainably” sourced clothing or donate money to a non-profit working to stop climate change, but this doesn’t change the fact that the underlying business model is not sustainable. Producing that amount of clothing in such a short amount of time doesn’t leave room for sustainability, so what this company is doing is greenwashing. Companies know that people are beginning to place more and more value on sustainable items and business practices, so instead of actually implementing those changes, many companies will just give the appearance of said changes, without actually doing anything.

How to Spot Greenwashing:

- Look for a sustainability report

If you’re shopping from a large brand, look on a company’s website for some type of sustainability index. If the company doesn’t have one, or if it’s very hard to find, chances are they don’t want people looking into their business practices. Companies that have nothing to hide will make this information front and center on their websites. Keep in mind that many small businesses may not have this information, but this doesn’t necessarily mean they are greenwashing, they may just not have the resources for this type of research.

- They don’t have the numbers to back it up.

One of the easiest ways to spot greenwashing is by looking into the statistics about their sustainability practices. If a large, prominent company doesn’t have any specific numbers about its sustainability or uses vague statements in regards to its efforts, then it most likely is greenwashing.

- Remember the repeat offenders

Oftentimes, the same companies will be guilty of greenwashing, seemingly never learning from their mistakes. If a company has a long history of unethical work practices and unsustainable methods of production, it is unlikely this will change overnight. For example, Shein recently put out a sustainability report in an effort to change its negative reputation in regard to clothing waste. They cited that they would increase their use of recycled polyester fabrics and reuse more water. This may sound nice at first, but the reality is that Shein’s overproduction of cheap clothing isn’t slowing down anytime soon, and even recycled polyester releases microplastics every time you wash it. Change in companies such as these will require more than the promise of increased recycling or charity donation. Ultimately, if the price for a brand-new item of clothing seems too good to be true, it probably is.

Elitism and Sustainability

One of the main reasons businesses have become so keen to use greenwashing as a marketing strategy is that sustainability has become a symbol of wealth and status. The upper class, particularly wealthy white people, have taken on a love for ultra-minimalism and the appearance of sustainability, while still contributing to the problem by buying more & more 'sustainable' products. This creates a cycle that keeps the price of truly sustainable products unattainable for the lower to middle classes. Because advertising is aspirational, these rich, white-washed ideas of ‘sustainability’ are marketed to us as the right way to live our lives, the way to success and happiness. This report written by Veronica Bates Kassatly and Dorothee Baumann-Pauly tackles our misguided ideas about what sustainability actually means and the disconnect between elitist fashion and actual sustainability in textiles. At the end of the day, true sustainability takes into account the needs of the poor and the underrepresented. It’s not just about recycling; garment workers must be paid a living wage in order for those items of clothing to be considered sustainable. The reason you’ll see India listed as one of the main locations for vendors for brands such as Urban Outfitters is because India has one of the lowest minimum wages, around $2.80 per day. That’s just 35 cents per hour.

“At present, fashion demonstrates its sustainability credentials by investing in the development of alternative fibers, or fiber recycling, or some other aspect of purported circularity. Brands must invest in farmers.”

By supporting small farms, indigenous farmers, and preserving cultural history, we are directly supporting sustainable initiatives. Humans are not separate from the environment, and our economical and social systems have to be taken into account when talking about sustainability. If our definition of ‘the environment looks like picturesque mountain scenes and forests but doesn’t include cities, cars, and people, then we’re getting it wrong.

How to Spot a Sustainable Business:

If a business uses sustainable practices, it will be specific and honest. Look for information about their manufacturing facility, where they source their materials from, and how they treat their employees. You can look for labels such as ENERGY STAR for appliances and electronics, Fair Trade Certified or USDA Certified Organic for food products, LEED for energy-efficient buildings, WaterSense for water-saving products, and Living Wage Certified, for ethical compensation. For eggs, look for the label “Animal Welfare Approved” or if at all possible, get local eggs from someone you know.For sustainable textiles, look for labels on cotton such as “pima” which refers to high-quality, American-grown cotton. With wool, check where it was sourced from and make sure it isn’t sourced from Australia, where mulesing is still practiced. All of the wool and cotton at our mill is sourced from the United States, which reduces the distance it has to travel to get to the mill. This, in turn, reduces carbon emissions involved in transportation.

Greenwashing isn’t likely to go away anytime soon. The more people begin to value sustainability and ethically made products, the more companies will try to use this to their benefit, while continuing to cut costs wherever they can. It’s also worth remembering that rampant consumerism will never be the answer to climate change. It’s a hard space to navigate but we must continue to do our best to shop responsibly and send all companies a clear message that greenwashing isn’t going to cut it. We need to see results.